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[knifemaker3]

Just curious if anyone here is using or has used any discharge ink?

I've been wanting to try it but I just don't think it will work with my production methods right now.......

I wonder too how bad the smell is?

Just curious if anyone here is using it and what your thoughts on it are.

Thanks

[COCHISE]

I have not tried printing with discharge ink. from what I read, it still smells like formaldehyde. I was a Biology major so that doesn't bother me.

This is a very informative link about the process and other ideas.
http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/product/MTDSMIXGAL

Ryonet has a very comprehensive CD on the process for folks wanting to get started.

I would try the process and create a bleached out splatter on a black shirt so I could add a full color heat pressed image.
Discharge print the splat, wash and dry the shirt, imprint the full color graphic...... no pizza box feel.

Obviously water based white ink could create a splat as well...... it would have a tiny bit more hand, but I bet it wouldn't stink as much.

ken

[knifemaker3]

Ken, I haven't tried my hand at waterbased inks yet either.  Bought some emulsion and inks to try.....just never got around to it.    I didn't like the fact that you have to throw the left over ink away.....too much waste compared to plastisol for me and my shop......

But, it sure does make for a nice hand on the print.  I don't think I'll try the discharge......maybe! 

[davebaileys]

Ken, I haven't tried my hand at waterbased inks yet either.  Bought some emulsion and inks to try.....just never got around to it.    I didn't like the fact that you have to throw the left over ink away.....too much waste compared to plastisol for me and my shop......

But, it sure does make for a nice hand on the print.  I don't think I'll try the discharge......maybe! 

Knifemaker,  you only need to throw away unused waterbased ink if it has been mixed with a curing agent - the stuff that makes the ink cure without having to be heated.  Untreated ink can go back in the tub.  Dave

[knifemaker3]

Knifemaker,  you only need to throw away unused waterbased ink if it has been mixed with a curing agent - the stuff that makes the ink cure without having to be heated.  Untreated ink can go back in the tub.  Dave

Correct me if I'm wrong but I've always read that once you put ink on the screen you can't put it back in the tub as it will already be starting to dry out even without the curing agent......   That is why in drier climates and low humidity days you need to keep misting it to keep it from drying out.....at least that's what I've always read.

Like I said, I've bought some to try....just haven't had time to actually try it yet.

Thanks

[davebaileys]

Yes, waterbased ink does dry out if you leave it in the screen for too long,whereas plastisol can be left for weeks/months. 

Waterbased will dry more quickly in fine mesh screens than coarse ones.  To keep it usable when printing, you need to flood between prints, and keep a good volume of ink on the screen at all times - and don't wander off! 

The ink doesn't dry in seconds.  I used to worry it would dry whilst I was blinking.  If you don't flood, and you don't have a volume of ink on the screen, and the climate is hot and dry, it will clog the screen preety quickly (not a problem I have had in the UK recently).  If it starts to clog in the screen in the middle of printing, you can usually stop it by spritzing with water.   

When I finish printing, I start cleaning up straight away.  As long as the ink was printing OK when I finished, I scrape the unused ink off the squeegee and screen and put it back in the tub.  Then, only needs water and a cloth to clean the screen - job done in a couple of minutes. 

It is the fact that I found the clean up so much easier for waterbased than it was for plastisol, that I gave up on plastisol after my second try at using it - the fact that the screenwash I used to get the plastisol off my screen was smelling the house out was also a factor.

Dave

[knifemaker3]

I agree with the idea of cleaning up with water and a rag is appealing.  However I read in one article that the dye's in wb inks or something else in the wb inks made it more harmful as most city water systems couldn't handle them for some reason......and I can't remember what it was now.  The article I was reading was last year and I've slept since then.

Still maybe something I may look into when I get the chance.  I've just not had much need to print with anything other than plastisol......yet! 

[davebaileys]

Knifemaker,
I also don't buy into the 'WB ink is the way to saving the planet' arguement - emulsion stripper and residue are just as bad for WB as for plastisol.  

Clean up is definitely 'easier' for WB as far as I am concerned, and WB definitely has the best hand, and you can iron over it.  WB clean up I also think is easier.  So, for me, WB is the way to go, and, don't forget, you really don't need to discard the unused ink!
Dave

[COCHISE]

Informative discussion.

I think I need to finally sit down and get serious about screen printing.
I am a basic hacker with enough skill and equipment to hold my own in a one color, no halftone print.

 I use the Rhino paper made by Nennah to avoid the issue with photo development of the emulsion. http://www.rhinotechinc.com/screen-printing-stencils/screen-printing-rhinoscreen-stencils/stencil-film-RS1117

 I have been successful creating very good detailed screens with the pink emulsion and a 500 watt bulb, I just don't like the hassle. However if I want to expand to halftone and Four color, I best learn to be absolutely successful with the process..


ken

[knifemaker3]

Ken, it ain't that hard.  If I can do it anyone can!

[COCHISE]

Old post, new question.

The caution expressed by all the providers of ink and supplies for the discharge is that not all shirts will discharge.
I realize that 100% cotton is best. Does anyone have some part numbers and brands of shirts they have successfully discharged??

I will build a forced air conveyor dryer.


ken

[boomerbabe]

Ken, it's not the shirt fabric so much as it is the dye used to color it. Reactive dyed shirts are best for discharge although there are some colors that won't discharge (some blues, for example). Garments that are vat dyed don't discharge to my knowledge. You are pretty much limited to the natural bast fibers, cotton, rayon, bamboo, linen etc. I would be interested in your plans for the forced air dryer. I'll look up more info if you need it. I would start with the more popular brands such as Gildan, Hanes etc. and you will need to test.

[COCHISE]

Ryonet's "new" discharge chemistry seems to be fairly easy to use.

The Gildan 5000 was proported to be good.
A 100% cotton is supposed to yield best results.

Grainger has a infrared system and I will look into it. The conveyor is the easy part. Gear reduction system with dowel rollers covered in fiberglass mesh.

Thank you very much for your input. I'll ask for more insight as I start collecting the hardware.

I'll start with a DIY 6 color two station press.

I have the software in mind from AdvancedTshirts.com.

ken

[boomerbabe]

Ventilation is important. Off gases formaldehyde. I hope you post pictures. I haven't done discharge for production, but I have done discharge for art cloth.