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Author Topic: printer buddy - heat transfer over screenprint  (Read 685 times)
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2011, 11:10:59 AM »

Yes it is, I have had a vinyl on my trailer that I use for haul my shirts and a booth set up now for 3 years without any overlay and it is just as vibrant and clear as the day I put it on. Now that is as of today, I am constantly testing and looking for new applications of the #369 and I am starting a project now of vinyl and will keep the forum informed as to what I find.  I need questions from you and the forum for me to participate, I truly do mean to help people with the findings of my work. I do not earn a living making tee-shirts, I do it a lot though to find new uses for the #369 which is helpful to our industry. I have a show to set up tomorrow here in Portland. I guess you are interested in actually seeing the transfer. I spent all day yesterday with a customer that has a direct to garment machine without white and embroidery business.  I have a Graphtec 5000 and he and I did a lot of testing on different materials yesterday. I will see here now if I can attach a photo I make of the #369 onto wood, stainless steel, aluminum and tile. I hope I can attach the photo file.
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uncle remus
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« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2011, 11:26:06 AM »

thanks for the info Charlie....one more thing i assume you print to some kind of transfer paper when applying to wood or other hard goods ( what paper?) & you can just run the vinyl thru the printer ( what vinyl are you using?)
Thanks again
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #22 on: May 09, 2011, 12:23:21 PM »

Uncle Remus, did you get the picture of the substrates? I am using Propay paper for those transfers onto the different substrates. Papilio Paper is sending me all their different papers in the mail now and also some vinyls I will do more and more testing and just make sure you send me questions because that is how I let you guys know what is going on here at the laboratory of heat transfers.
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uncle remus
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« Reply #23 on: May 09, 2011, 01:10:46 PM »

yes i seen them, they look good....I just sent you an email regarding your ink....
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2011, 01:40:15 PM »

Uncle Ramus, Yes I received your email and I replied, any other questions please let me know.

Here is a photo I just took today that is on vinyl, on the side of my trailer that is parked outside in the Oregon freeze and heat for 3 years now. I do not have any kind of overlay on it. How's that for good Ink?
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uncle remus
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« Reply #25 on: May 09, 2011, 02:14:27 PM »

thats pretty impressive for a inkjet printed vinyl to last 3 years outside
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #26 on: May 09, 2011, 02:36:46 PM »

I appreciate your compliment, thank you. That's one of the many reasons for my wanting to tell everyone, #369 is good beyond good. So apparently you got the photo from here on the forum.
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gprockhill
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« Reply #27 on: May 12, 2011, 09:32:56 AM »

Charlie - let me ask you a few questions. Forgive me these have been answered elsewhere... The ink system, can you have one CIS system delivering your ink but it gets printed on different paper for different results? If for instance, I want to print on 100 poly and have the same result as High Temp or Sublimation, would I use sublimation transfer paper and then, if I want to print on 100 cotton Tee's would I use say JPSS paper ( I happen to have a boat load of this paper - so for now its my paper of choice for heat press) ?
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #28 on: May 12, 2011, 10:04:16 AM »

Yes you can use any brand of heat transfer paper you like with #369 ink.
When using #369 you will always use paper for lights or paper for darks, not sublimation paper. Also, always at the same temp, 390 degrees for 30 seconds. Your Jpss paper is fine. I just have a preference for Neenah or Propay paper.
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Shawneshawn
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« Reply #29 on: May 17, 2011, 01:16:37 AM »

Aloha Charley,
thanks for the set up I love it and I really like your customer service.
The potential of your ink is somewhat endless as far as I can tell .I just wish I would have found you sooner.          Shawn in Hilo, Hawaii
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #30 on: May 17, 2011, 06:55:04 AM »

Shawn, I truly do appreciate your compliment on the #369 ink and my customer service. Thank you, Charlie
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gprockhill
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« Reply #31 on: May 17, 2011, 11:32:32 AM »

This question may have been asked already but I am going to put it out there again. Does the CIS system for this new ink work with the Epson WF 1100 ?
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uncle remus
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« Reply #32 on: May 17, 2011, 12:46:43 PM »

Rock, the CIS is just for the 1400 & he offers refillable carts for the 1100....
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #33 on: May 17, 2011, 03:22:36 PM »

Yes, the 1400 CIS and the 1100 has refillable inks yes but with equal the amount of ink as the CIS.
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gprockhill
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« Reply #34 on: May 17, 2011, 03:52:16 PM »

Thanks.
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American logoZ
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« Reply #35 on: May 17, 2011, 07:28:22 PM »

You lay down white before laying down color?  So are you using white pigment ink?  And do you make 2 transfers...or send the paper through twice?  What keeps the inks from mixing (reds coming out pink for example)?  Or am I missing something?  Is this the same general light-colored-shirt process as, say, DuraBrite & JPSS  .. just an ink option?
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And now abideth faith, hope, charity, these three; but the greatest of these is charity.  1 Cor 13:13
uncle remus
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« Reply #36 on: May 18, 2011, 05:48:58 AM »

Logo, i think i understand this process, but if i am wrong i am sure someone will correct me.
You start by laying down a white plastisol ink background & then put your design on top of that, which you can use your normal transfer paper for light colored shirts.
I have never tried this so i dont know much more about it, but that is the general concept, I think.....
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COCHISE
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« Reply #37 on: May 18, 2011, 06:40:34 AM »

I have attached a link to a post I started a while back. Read the first and follow up to the latest post I made. The concept is simple and does not require emulsion etc. to create a 'mask" screen. Use the mask to create a base color of white with water based or discharge ink. Discharge may not yield a pure white background but Ryonet has ink that will deal with that issue also. Then print the image on normal transfer paper, then onto the mask. Job complete. Nice shirt, soft hand.

http://tbiz101forum.com/index.php/topic,2595.msg32035.html#new


ken Grin
« Last Edit: May 18, 2011, 06:45:34 AM by COCHISE » Logged

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uncle remus
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« Reply #38 on: May 18, 2011, 07:02:19 AM »

oops..i had the wrong kind of white ink, thanks for correcting it Ken.
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cherokeelaser
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« Reply #39 on: May 18, 2011, 07:55:08 AM »

As I have said in my videos, use the ink that will give the clear white on cottons. This ink is Ryonet "DISCHARGE WHITE". Straight discharge only removes some of the dark color in the shirt but "DISCHARGE WHITE" leaves a beautiful bright white background for your ink. Using discharge ink by itself is not going to give you what is needed. Note that my introduction did not use just plain discharge it was DISCHARGE WHITE. Also, remember that discharge only works on cottons. When you screen discharge onto the garment the ink will not look like it is working until you heat it because when you heat it the activation turns the turns the ink into a white background for your ink. I have not used any other digital ink jet ink except printer buddy #369 so I do not guarantee that other inks will work. You should remember that because you are using the white discharge instead of just plain discharge the white will leave a heavier feel than just plain discharge. So, you should work with your application of the white discharge so that you do not apply too much thus causing a heavier feel but enough to give you a clear all white background for your color digital ink. It is the white in the discharge that makes my introduction work.
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