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Author Topic: cruiser seatbelt pads  (Read 362 times)
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nopalito24
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« on: December 31, 2009, 07:20:09 AM »

Hello,
This is my first question- first I would like to thank all of the members for sharing
all this valuable information as well as the creators of this site.

I'm not sure if its ok to ask this here but here we go: I did my first transfers on to these seat belt pads using flock, when I pealed the liner of the flock after pressing it took the very top layer of fabric off the seat belt pad with it. I followed the manufacturers pressing instructions, as well as the only instructions that come w/ the pad.If anyone is using these seat belt pads do you have any advise?

thanks again
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badablue
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« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2009, 09:30:11 AM »

I am dazed and confussed. As the distributor of these  have tested them under extreme heat and with almost all types of applications including sublimation at 400 degrees for 45 seconds and never had this result. I would love to see picture of this. Also I will gladly send you replacements at your request. Lou
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Masterkoin
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« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2009, 12:33:42 PM »

I've flocked them, vinyled them, silkscreened, and inkjet transferred them with out having anything happen to them yet.  Probably need to check your equipment and technique, but inkjet stuff is really hot for quite a long press.  I would think that would be the problem over any of the other techniques if there is going to be one.
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« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2009, 12:49:41 PM »

what heat and what kind of press,, 
MMM
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« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2009, 12:50:36 PM »

did you peel cool, or hot,, are you sure
on a hot peel that glue was not left and the flock came off, ?
Just trying to trouble shoot, please show a pic..
MMM
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nopalito24
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« Reply #5 on: December 31, 2009, 01:30:18 PM »

hey guys, thanks for all your responses. I do believe it has something to do w/ my technique since I'm new to the seat belt pads. Here are some pics. I used poli-flock at 330F 20sec. peeled warm, medium pressure.(like application instructions)
I think I will try lowering the temperature, but would like to hear what you think after the pictures.
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Masterkoin
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« Reply #6 on: December 31, 2009, 01:59:39 PM »

Really looks like too much heat, but I'd check your press temp to see if its really reading correctly.  When I did inkjet transfers, I did them at 375 Fahrenheit for 25 seconds.
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« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2009, 02:27:03 PM »

You are using a pressing sheet too arent you?
yes you diffently peeled off the top layer,, but what i am concerned with is the irregular shape it peeled, not square like the carrier sheet of press....
know what i mean guys?
that is why i asked about teh pressing sheet!
Thanks for the pic, it helps us trouble shoot,
MMM
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« Reply #8 on: December 31, 2009, 04:29:45 PM »

I would be curious as to what name brand press and whether it reads Fahrenheit or Celsius. This seems to have been an issue lately.
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knifemaker3
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« Reply #9 on: December 31, 2009, 06:29:56 PM »

I'm curious as to why the flock stayed but the pad around it lifted?  Looks to me like it would have lifted the flock as well.....unless the flock was acting like an insulator.

I've never worked with flock material before.  Is there a film on top that needs to be peeled off like on vinyl for nylon?  Just curious as if there is that might be what caused the lifting of the pad material.  Just thinking out of my head here...like I said, I've never used flock before so I don't know anything about it.
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nopalito24
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« Reply #10 on: December 31, 2009, 07:21:41 PM »

working w/ flock is pretty much the same as working w/ flex, meaning you cut it in mirror mode then you peel the plastic film after presssing. Of course when lifting the film is when the seat belt pad gets scalped. Yes, I'm using a teflon sheet to protect my press just as if I was doing a tranfer w/ flex film. Also, the irregular pattern is due to me cutting the graphic out of the flock sheet using sissors after cutting it w/ my plotter. I'm using a Sunie heat press clam style that reads Fheit. I've had it for more than 1 and a half and has worked great.http://www.sunie.com/store/sunie_dynamicIndex.asp

fyi
flock is a great material for this seat belt pads because its easy to cut, many colors, and its soft and comfortable.

thanks for all the replies, happy new year.
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knifemaker3
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« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2009, 07:47:49 PM »

Very curious...... Have you used this flock material on other media with success?  Or is this the first time using it?  It almost looks like there was some sort of chemical reaction or something to cause this.  The only other thing I can think of would be too much heat but it doesn't look scorched...

I still can't figure out why it lifted the pad material but the flock stayed....

Anyone else have any ideas?

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Craig Blankenship
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« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2009, 07:51:48 PM »

i have used flock before but it was always cold peel,,, hummmmm has us thinking, so the peel only happened where the flock carrier tape was,,,, hummmmm
MMM
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knifemaker3
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« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2009, 07:57:34 PM »

Maybe that's the answer MMM.  You peel flock cold and the poster stated they peeled warm........Still I wouldn't have thought it would lift the material and not the flock if you peeled at the wrong stage.
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Craig Blankenship
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badablue
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« Reply #14 on: December 31, 2009, 08:02:54 PM »

hey guys, thanks for all your responses. I do believe it has something to do w/ my technique since I'm new to the seat belt pads. Here are some pics. I used poli-flock at 330F 20sec. peeled warm, medium pressure.(like application instructions)
I think I will try lowering the temperature, but would like to hear what you think after the pictures.
It looks like the glue residue from the tape that is the cause. Whose flock is this. I don't think it is lifting the color but leaving glue behind.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2009, 08:04:27 PM by Admin (badalou, Lou) » Logged
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« Reply #15 on: December 31, 2009, 08:15:52 PM »

Lou, I think you might have hit the nail on the head.  Now that you said that it does look like glue residue.

napolito24, do you have an infrared heat gun to test the temp of your heat platen?  If it isn't the same as your readout is telling you that could create a problem.  Mine is @ 25 degrees cooler than the temp dial and I also have hot and cold spots across the platen.  But, I up the temp about 50 degrees above what is called for and get good results when I press.  If I don't, I have all kinds of problems.

Not enough or too much heat could cause the paper to not release properly and may be leaving a glue residue like Lou said. Or, it could be a bad batch of flock.

Try printing on a scrap piece of material if this is your first time using this flock to make sure it ain't a bad batch of flock as well.

Eventually we'll get this figured out for ya!  Happy New Year!
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« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2010, 12:51:37 AM »

I think you guys have it,, that is where i was headed with the outline of the image,, ect,,,  that was why i wondered what carrier paper was being used,,,
I have done flock on the crusiers, and it left no residue,
Mine was from imprintables,,
I think a test is called for,, on a black piece of something,
MMM
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ckozmikk
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« Reply #17 on: January 01, 2010, 07:54:02 AM »

I went to the Sunie site and looked at a mug press...specs on the mug press has info that it reads in Fahrenheit highlighted.
For the shirt press it just gives info on temp range in Fahrenheit and Celsius.
Do these units read in Celsius and a temp conversion need to done? I think MMM was going this direction in an earlier part of the thread.
Karen
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« Reply #18 on: January 01, 2010, 08:03:43 AM »

I also went to Sunie website and several others that sell this press from what I can gather it will read in both. If this is true make sure it is set to the Fahrenheit reading. Also is the fabric stuck to the paper when you peel or is the paper clean?
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« Reply #19 on: January 03, 2010, 02:15:32 PM »

IMHO that is residue left behind by the transfer paper that reflects the outline cut out of the paper by the user.

ken

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